How Do I Do This? Trivia Quiz

In photography, speed can refer to the size of the lens opening (and how much light is let in); the interval of exposure, and in the case of pre-digital cameras, the sensitivity of the film to light. The size of the lens opening (also known as the aperture) is the means of controlling the amount of light that is transmitted through the lens.

The greater the speed, the less light the film is exposed to.

I don't bother writing a list for New Year's resolutions any more! But a photographer needs to pay attention to the resolution to ensure the image will print without blurring, particular when increasing or decreasing the size, or cropping. Critical to digital photography in particular is the number of pixels in the sensor area.

The quality of pictures has increased over recent years because of the increased number of pixels possible in modern equipment.

Red-eye occurs with most compact cameras in a poorly lit situation and when the flash that is very close to the camera lens. This is because in low light, people's puplis are open wide to let in as much light as possible, and the light from the flash is able to bounce off the backs of their eyes and out again. The redness is a reflection of the blood vessels in the back of the eye.

To mitigate this, a number of steps can be taken, including using more ambient lighting, asking people not to look at the camera, using the red-eye reduction function found on most modern cameras and even turning the flash off where possible.

Using shutter speed correctly is a great skill that should be honed for creating excellent photographs, as it enables perfecting exposure, the control of blurring, and the ability to create interesting effects. Shutter speed controls how sharp pictures are.

The flap that opens when a photo is taken allows light to reach the sensor - if it opens slowly, a lot of light is let in, while fast shutter speed means minimal light is let in. Using a faster shutter speed also minimises camera shake; conversely, slow shutter speed will create a pleasing blurred effect when taking a picture of moving object.

Bokeh is a Japanese term popularised in photography circles in the late 1990s, and means 'blur' or 'haze'. It is an effect that is deliberately achieved by blurring the background of the photo, while the foreground, or subject, is clearly defined and focussed.

In effect, it isolates the subject from the background. This result is achieved by using a shallow depth of field. This is dependent on the distance the photographer is from the subject, aperture settings, and sometimes the lens. Opening the aperture longer to create a larger opening will allow in more light, this providing shallower depth of field.

There are a range of filters that can be attached to a camera - UV, coloured, polarising, and even filters that will blur a portion of the lens (in the old days, my dad used to use Vaseline smeared on a clear filter to achieve that!). Filters are able to create arrange of effects that enhance pictures, but can also be used to reduced glare and protect the equipment.

Coloured lenses work on the complementary colour; for example a yellow filter will 'block' the blue wave length and can increase the contrast of clouds against the sky. The yellow filter is also helpful in enhancing skin tone. Polarising lenses will reduce glare, so, for example, it's possible to see though the reflection on water or glass to get a clear picture of the object below.

Good technique when using a flash is really important. Improper use can mean the resulting images look harsh and unflattering. For example, a flash might be needed to supplement the ambient light, but it can also cause unwanted shadows on the subject's face. To overcome this, pointing the flash upwards to bounce off the ceiling can provide the light that's needed without some of the undesirable effects.

A diffuser can also be used to create the softer light wanted when shooting portraits or weddings. Hard light created by the flash can also be useful to create dramatic effects with shadows and contrast.

Having the right lens for your subject is really important and there are many types out there. The monopod is one of those huge ones that are often seen at the tennis or other sporting events. A standard lens will have a natural 'view' that mimics the human eye, and will generally have a wide aperture and fixed focal length; it is a good one for general photography and amateurs.

A macro lens is designed specifically for close-up and portrait photography, while a telephoto lens, with its long focal length, is made for middle-length images.

A fish-eye lens is a variety of wide-angle lens that captures around 180 degrees and can be used to create interesting effects.

The trigger is the button you push to make the camera operate. As with shooting a rifle, it is necessary to 'squeeze' the trigger to ensure the camera is jostled causing unwanted blur. It is also possible to attach a trigger button on a cable or use a remote trigger button which allows the operator to take a picture from a distance.

This is useful when photographing wildlife, or as an alternative to a timed release when the photographer wants to be in the shot. It is also possible to use a trigger button for the manual use of a flash.

Okay, so a lens cap seems pretty basic. However, they are essential in keeping the camera free of dust and grit which can damage the inner working of the camera. They can also be used to create interesting effects, such as taking pinhole photographs. A pinhole lens can be created by drilling a small hole in the middle of the cap. Using this cap when taking a picture creates pleasantly blurred lo-fi images. Early photographers would line their subject up and at just the right moment, remove the cap for a given length of time, exposing the plate to light, thus creating the image.