Anatomy of an Early 1860s Fashion Bonnet Quiz

Answer: buckram and wire

Buckram was a coarse canvas with a stiffening treatment added. Wire was, well, just thin, stiff wire. The buckram formed the basic part of the bonnet over the head and possibly the small vertical oval/round section in back. The wire added stiffening over the forehead and down where the ties attached. Bonnets didn't take well to moisture, which, in the worst case, could make the buckram wilt and cause rust marks from the wire. Cardboard, though not corrugated, cut in separate piece was actually used to stiffen some sun bonnets, but they were a different critter entirely from dressy fashion bonnets.

Answer: silk

Silk, especially a crisp smooth kind like taffeta, was a typical outer fabric. A bit of wool or cotton wadding could be placed where the corners of the buckram or wire might show through. The inside of the bonnet could be lined with net or light silk. I'll note an exception: the straw bonnet, which could just show the straw, and fancy winter hoods.

Sheer bonnets were another style. You'll need to stop at another milliner's shop to hear about all of those, but there was quite a diversity beyond the most typical type.

Answer: silk velvet or cotton velveteen

Silk velvet and cotton velveteen were typical winter bonnet covers, not used on summer bonnets. One could continue wearing a silk summer bonnet in winter too, by changing the trimming a bit, so an economical woman might forego velvet and retrim silk for all seasons.

Answer: channels were sewn in the fabric, then wire or basket wood slipped in and the fabric gathered tight

Gathered bonnets had been around for a while, because they could be used on any base. The bonnets of the 1850s that barely came up to the ears, the long bonnets of the 1840s shaped like a mailbox -- no problem, they could be made with a drawn covering.

The fabric could just be basted and gathered, but to get the look of little ribs running up over the bonnet, one needed to insert wire or a very tiny split of wood.

Answer: A strip of gathered fabric at the bottom sides and back, covering the wearer's neck

The curtain was usually made of the same fabric as the main bonnet, though there are handsome contrasting examples. It could include lace at the bottom, a lace or other decorative panel halfway down, or anything the maker and buyer thought looked fashionable and pretty.

The length might be anything from one to three inches (three to eight cm), depending on how the bonnet was cut, the fashion that year and the milliner's opinion of what looked good.

Answer: silk, 2 to 5 inches (5 to 12 cm) wide

Wide silk ribbon, sometimes embroidered or woven in fancy patterns, was typical for ribbons. If it seemed the silk might be too wide or fancy to be tied tight enough to hold the bonnet on in the wind, the milliner could add additional, practical ties of narrow cotton tape, or something similar. They were tied for real, while the silk ribbons were tied gracefully for show.

Answer: white netting or lace, perhaps gathered or ruffled

The white netting produced a base that could be decorated with whatever one wanted. Spoon bonnets were curved higher above the forehead than any other bonnets in recent memory, so milliners took advantage of that extra space and the fashion desire to look lovely with a nice high bonnet. Just a few years before, the forehead had been left low and blank, while the cheek areas were trimmed with the same enthusiasm.

Answer: silk or paper flowers, buds and leaves

A decoration that looked like it had just come from a spring or summer garden was ideal, with perhaps some bits of light ribbon or lace mixed in. Even the outside of the bonnet was sometimes trimmed on the top or sides, but the area above the forehead was emphasized first.

Answer: feathers, velvet flowers and artificial leaves, berries

There was a subtle difference in winter and summer flowers, with no bright line between them, but in general, winter bonnets received feathers and velvet flowers, while summer bonnets received paper or silk flowers. Trimmings needed to last at least for the season, so dried grass might do, but if fresh flowers or leaves were used for a special occasion, they needed watched and changed quickly, lest they stain the netting or wilt soon.

In general, more stable artificial flowers and berries were the standard items preferred.

Answer: a little flat bonnet barely covering the top of the head

The wheel of fashion kept turning, and those who wished to follow it could no longer just retrim last year's spoon bonnet. This next revolution required something completely new, with a smaller flat form. Those who disliked the size of the spoon bonnet would be happy with the new little thing, but it would be a change that took some getting used to.