Ocean Surface Waves Trivia Quiz

Answer: Wind blowing over the surface

The wind blowing over long unobstructed distances and over long periods of time leads to the formation of the ocean surface waves, also known as wind waves.

Answer: Fetch

Fetch is the unobstructed distance wind blows over the ocean surface and determines the amount of energy transferred from the wind to the water surface to generate waves.

Answer: At the still water level

The particles under a wave are subjected to an up-and-down motion. At the highest point, the crest, the particles change the direction of motion. The speed here is then zero. The same is valid for the lowest point, the trough. At the still water level, the particles continue their motion in the direction they are travelling (either up or down) and have their highest speed.

Answer: Shoaling

Shoaling is the process that results in the increase of the wave height near the coast. Waves in shallower water move slower than waves in deeper water. The energy from the faster waves "catch up" with the waves in the front and result in increased wave heights.

Answer: Waves move more slowly

The waves feel the effect of the sea bed as they move from deep to shallow water. This results in the waves moving slower in shallow water compared to deep water.

Answer: Spectrum

A wave spectrum provides a statistical representation of the waves at a particular location. This provides information on the energy content of the waves and the periods of the waves found at that location.

Answer: Freak waves

Freak waves are large waves that occur at sea in relatively calm conditions. Due to the energy these waves carry, they are very destructive and have caused several ship wrecks. For a long time, before scientists confirmed such a phenomenon, sailors were not believed when they reported that a large wave caused a shipwreck in otherwise calm waters.

Answer: Swell waves

After the wind from the storm has generated the waves, the waves with shorter periods transfer their energy to waves with longer periods. These long period waves reach the coast and are called swell waves. Regions that frequently receive swell waves are generally popular surfing destinations.

Answer: Breakwaters

Breakwaters are primary protection structures around ports generally made of large stone blocks. They are aligned according to the incoming wave direction to prevent their movement into the port. They can also be built parallel to the coast to protect the beaches from severe wave action.

Answer: Cosine or Sine

Sine or cosine functions represent the upwards and downward motion of a wave with a particular period or frequency. Several sine or cosine functions can be added together to represent more complicated waves.